Written by Sonja Nell owner of Gurmuki Footwear
Very few people know that the personality of a shoe lies in its shape. The shape of a shoe is the initial introduction to its essence and the first thing that people are attracted to, even though they might not realize it on a conscious level.
If you have not read Part 1 on how Gurmuki was started, please follow this link. Now without further a due:
1. Choose a shape
The shape is therefore the first decision that you need to make when you design a new shoe/range.
2. The mold (most significant step)
A last is the mold that a shoe is made around and in the last you design the shape. Whether it is going to have a sharp or round toe box, a high instep or a low, how high the heel is going to be etc. The designing of the last is the most significant step.
In my decision to create a personality for our first design, which was the Sheepskin Wool TRIBAL Boots, I chose a shape that represented comfort, freedom, limitlessness and adventure. When you look at the shape of a Gurmuki TRIBAL Boot there is nothing that holds you back from jumping and running and expanding and taking on the world with vigor and inspiration.
As soon as the last is designed, the pattern is made. This is where Red’s expertise came in. From a sketch I made, he designed the pattern. Our initial sample looked like an Eskimo’s boot – cute, but not fancy. I needed a bit more glamour and a bit less functionality. He went back to the drawing board and every time we refined the design, until the 5th sample was finally approved and it was in a black size 4 that I still wear every winter – My first baby, my first love. I’ll never throw those boots away!
The finished sample needed to prove its worth, so I had to wear it for 3 weeks to see if it is comfortable, whether it supports my back and if it puts any strain on my feet or my calf muscles. After the 3 week period, when it graduated the test, we decided to go ahead.
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3. Shoe sizes
The next steps then are to grade the last and patterns into the chosen sizes. Your molded last and pattern gets sent away to a grading company and after a month if you’re lucky, arrives a set of graded lasts and patterns of sizes 3 to 12, and you are ready to make your boots.
4. Cutting the patterns
The next decision you need to make is whether you are going to cut the patterns by hand or use a clicking press. Nowadays, no one cuts by hand anymore, so I was lucky to learn that Red had his own clicker – hallelujah, a little bit of money could be spared.
So then those patterns get sent away to another company to have the knives made. Knives are the cookie cutters so to speak. Imagine you are backing cookies in the form of hearts and flowers – those shapes that you press down on the dough are called knives in the footwear industry and they are made with steel.
To be continued…. Read Part 1 here and don’t miss out on the ‘next episode’ on How to start a shoe company. Sign up to our newsletter and keep an eye on our Facebook page.
Our Footwear range includes: Genuine Leather KUDU Boots, Sheeps Wool TRIBAL Boots, Sheepskin Slippers, Genuine Leather Vellies (Veldskoen), Vellie Booties, Leather Baby Dolls, Leather Pumps
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Shop our full range at https://staging.gurmuki.com/